A look back at MFW Men | JDEED’s favorite moments
As the fashion world ushers in a new year, the spotlight is firmly on Milan, where JDEED Magazine has immersed itself in the sartorial spectacle of Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024. In between the enchanting allure of Italian savoir faire and an array of glamorous styles, we have navigated the runways to bring you a curated selection of the most noteworthy trends and must-haves from the latest collections.
THE SLEEK CHICNESS OF DOLCE&GABBANA
62 meticulously crafted ensembles took center stage in the new aristocratic D&G universe, embodying the Italian maison’s unwavering commitment to immaculate craftsmanship and an unrelenting pursuit of detail. Rooted in the brand’s sartorial DNA, the collection embraced a predominantly black palette, a sophisticated canvas onto which modern volumes and dynamic fits were artfully painted.
The precision of superb lines traced the contours of coats and jackets, while trousers exhibited a graceful fluidity. Tank tops found unexpected companionship in fancy suits, creating a harmonious fusion that resonates with the spirit of a new and young aristocracy. This collection, a testament to the brand’s artistic prowess, masterfully weaves together tradition and innovation to redefine contemporary elegance.
THE MEMORABLE JW ANDERSON PRINTS
JW Anderson’s latest collection extends a compelling invitation into the realm of Jonathan Anderson’s creative mind, underscored by the haunting notes of Stanley Kubrick’s “Eyes Wide Shut” playing in a mesmerizing loop. Drawing inspiration from a profound encounter with Christiane Kubrick, the muse behind the collection, Anderson intricately weaves a narrative that captivates and challenges. Chromatic contrasts take center stage, creating a visual symphony on the catwalk, all while exuding a palpable genderless vibe punctuated by bold red details throughout. Jumpers undergo a transformation, evolving into long, luxuriously cozy dresses, while trousers adopt a sweeping width, embodying a sense of relaxed sophistication.
Velvet, in its opulent texture, emerges as a central protagonist, adding a touch of tactile indulgence to the collection. Our favorite must have? The exclusive prints, a highlight of the ensemble, meticulously crafted to evoke the essence of Kubrick’s cinematic universe. Each piece becomes a canvas, translating the designer’s dialogue with the visionary world of Stanley Kubrick into a fashion statement that is both distinctive and evocative.
THE MIRRORING OF GUCCI
At the core of Sabato de Sarno’s inaugural menswear collection for Gucci lie the twin elements of simplicity and provocation. Following its dazzling debut in September, the Italian maison embarked on a captivating “mirroring” journey, extending the designer’s distinctive aesthetic to the realm of menswear this January, completing the rich tapestry of de Sarno’s creative world within the Gucci universe. The designer’s effortless and sophisticated design language comes to life in the collection’s dynamic and fluid volumes. Each garment is meticulously adorned with
crystals, rhinestones, and a touch of artistic inspiration drawn from the iconic Italian singer Mina. The ethereal melodies of Mina’s music seamlessly intertwine with the Ancora concept, adding a layer of emotional resonance to the collection. Among the standout pieces are the must-have accessories of the new line, from the oversized allure of the maxi Jackie to the sleek elegance of metal necklaces.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’S SOPHISTICATED ELEGANCE
The quiet luxury storytelling extends further with Brunello Cucinelli’s latest collection, immersing us directly into the heart of the designer’s headquarters in Milan. As the ambiance is set with the melodic tunes of a jazz band and the aroma of Italian specialties wafts through the air, the atmosphere becomes a warm and inviting extension of Cucinelli’s creative ethos — a true embodiment of the brand’s identity that feels like home. Among the company of guests, models
took center stage to unveil the new Fall/Winter line, seamlessly blending classic elements with a contemporary twist. The collection serves as a nostalgic reintroduction of the timeless elements that have long defined men’s elegance, now presented in a fresh and modern narrative. The structured suits, iconic to the brand, make a refined appearance in a fluid and effortless manner, emphasizing the paramount importance of comfort. With a keen eye on innovation, the collection introduces new proportions and tones, all while staying true to the inherent spirit of Brunello Cucinelli. The result is a harmonious fusion of tradition and modernity, where each piece not only speaks to the evolution of men’s fashion but also encapsulates the enduring essence of the brand’s distinctive aesthetic. In the embrace of Cucinelli’s latest creations, the art of dressing elegantly becomes a celebration of heritage and innovation.
THE ADSB ANDERSSON BELL AVIATORS
Stepping boldly onto the catwalk, the latest ADSB Andersson Bell collection emerges as a dynamic fusion of workwear, punk, and romanticism, coalescing into an entirely novel conception of streetwear. Guests are welcomed into an avant-garde, AI-inspired realm, presided over by the mesmerizing inflatable fluid artwork crafted by Byunghan Lee. In this immersive experience, a striking dominance of green palettes unfolds, occasionally punctuated and crushed by bursts of
bright colors in a vivid contrast show. The collection draws inspiration from the figure of the first female Korean pilot, Ki-Ok Kwon, whose groundbreaking achievements serve as a narrative backdrop for the sartorial journey. The garments on display encapsulate the spirit of adventure and rebellion, embodying a streetwear narrative that is as eclectic as it is profound. Workwear elements intertwine seamlessly with punk aesthetics, and romantic flourishes add a touch of
whimsy to the ensemble. The result is a visual spectacle that transcends conventional fashion, ushering in a new era of streetwear that harmoniously blends tradition and rebellion, paying homage to both historical trailblazers and contemporary artistic expression.
JORDANLUCA’S DYSTOPIAN PUNK
The inflatable dream unfolds seamlessly at the Jordanluca FW 24 show, creating an atmosphere that is nothing short of a celebration, or perhaps even a birthday bash. The venue is transformed into a realm of silver balloons and sultry red lights, setting the stage for a collection that alludes to an underground, London-inspired location. Here, tailored outfits undergo a captivating deconstruction, seamlessly merging with their leather features to craft a grunge-infused erotic fantasy. In this rebellious tableau, the spotlight falls on the boots and striking red leather bags, each element playing a pivotal role in adding that essential touch of punk to the overall collection.
The show reaches its zenith with an unforgettable moment—the presence of Andreas Kronthaler from Vivienne Westwood, striding down the runway in a full leather parka, encapsulating the essence of grunge and fantasy in every stitch and strut.
SANTONI’S FAIRYTALE UNIVERSE
Our final destination in the Fall/Winter fashion journey is marked by the enchanting showcase orchestrated by the Italian house Santoni. Stepping into this magical realm, we are immediately transported into a world where shoes and bags seamlessly intertwine with the ethereal essence of the forest. The new collection, inspired by Sibilla, the queen of the fairies, invites fashion enthusiasts to embark on a spellbinding adventure into a realm of magic and wonder. In this tapestry of craftsmanship and creativity, the artistry of Santoni is masterfully woven into each piece. The new accessories, a testament to the brand’s commitment to excellence, embody a harmonious blend of coziness and luxury. It is as if the very fibers of the materials used have absorbed the mystical reminiscences of the enchanted world, infusing the collection with an otherworldly allure. The designs pay homage to the intricate details of the forest and the creatures living in it, with every stitch and contour telling a tale of woodland beauty.
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Cover picture/ Matteo Corner/EPA