Our chat with Vincenzo Castaldo, Creative Director at Pomellato

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Obsessed in an understatement. The first time I came across a Pomellato ring is when my brother was hunting for an engagement ring for his now wife; the second, when a dear friend got her first “Nudo” ring as a gift to herself then a second one a year later. I was fascinated by how “cool” yet how modern and exciting these pieces were, chic but still edgy and interesting. And just like that, the brand felt like it was meant to be in my close surroundings.
Fast-forward a couple years, I’m given the opportunity to chat with Vicenzo Castaldo, the brand’s Creative Director and find out he’s from the same area of Tuscany my sweet Nonna was from. Followed, a conversation about Vicenzo’s journey, his inspirations and the brand’s DNA, diving deeper into its fascinating universe.
More below.

Left, Vicenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s Creative Director by Federico D’Amico. Right, the “Iconica” collection.

Hello Vincezo – It’s such a pleasure to speak with you; I read that you attended an art school in Lucca and went to Marangoni – my nonna was actually from Bagni Di Lucca and I went to Marangoni in Paris; my brother also proposed to his wife with a Pomellato ring! On that note, can you tell us more about your fashion education and how you turned to jewelry?

Too bad we couldn’t see each other in Dubai! Actually I was born in Torre del Lago Puccini but I am particularly attached to Lucca, it is a city that I love very much.
Graduating from the Marangoni Institute in fashion design, the first 15 years of my career were in fashion, first at Romeo Gigli, then at Dolce & Gabbana.
I still like fashion, but at the time I felt that my cycle in that industry had come to an end, although I learned a lot from those experiences.
Pomellato’s then-creative head, Sergio Silvestris, who had been working with the brand for 30 years, offered me the opportunity to work with him. I felt it was a privilege and an honor, and it was a real induction, I learned from him the subtle beauty of imperfection in Pomellato and the sensuality of the shapes. Then came the passion for jewelry, where Pomellato has a unique and unmistakable personality, and for the magnificence of Mother Nature in the amazing world of gems.
For me jewelry has a fascinating and important timeless perspective, tends to live longer than fashion, so a collection once created can continue for a lifetime. That is why you need to be responsible in directing a collection and approach more cautiously by paying attention to many aspects, like the intrinsic value of materials and the added value of craftsmanship, as jewels last forever.

Pomellato is at the crossroads of classic and contemporary with a touch of fun – what is something very Tuscan and something very Milanese that you bring into your designs?

Milan is always a source of inspiration for Pomellato. I chose Milan many years ago and I would choose it again today. It is now my home city and what I like the most is its architecture that mixes past present and future: secret gardens and interiors co-exist with magnificent historic palazzi and modern landscapes. Milan has a special creative energy, the most intimate and less obvious aspects of the city can be recognized in Pomellato jewelry: a non-ostentatious elegance, superb craftsmanship and unmistakable design where excellence speaks softly.
From my Tuscan origins, I would say the love for architecture and arts: Tuscany is a remarkable region with amazing treasures all around you. Some of the most important artists were born and grown in Tuscany, no doubt that the search for beauty in all its forms is something that you bring with you forever.

The Pom Pom Dot collection

The Nudo collection is such a fun way to work gemstones and a lot of women around me are obsessed! How do you keep reinventing them?

Nudo is a very simple idea, perfectly executed. It’s born out of a daring creative intuition, with the intention of transforming the solitaire into a passepartout ring, ironic and elegant, moving the attention from the traditional diamond to a rich palette of colored gemstones.
Nudo’s design is so strong, so unique and so powerfully simple that has virtually stayed unchanged since the launch of the very first rings in 2001. The challenge with Nudo is to keep exploring new looks while staying true to its very timeless essence, this is why we introduced the hourglass cut, able to play with light, colour and transparency, and to amplify the iconic original concept of Nudo into its collection.  

Tell us more about the latest Pom Pom Dot Collection.

By creating this collection, I was looking for something that could express the Pomellato style, dedicating it to a minimal taste, with an unmistakable mark and with a link to our past.  
I’m fascinated by Pomellato’s rich heritage, which is always a great source of inspiration. Looking through the house’s archives, a buttoned-shape gold necklace from 1974 caught my eye and it was the perfect starting point for something that could be expressed in a piece of jewelry to be worn every day.
We came up with the idea of creating a double-sided shape to add playfulness to the original button. Pom Pom Dot invites you to play with colors and allows the wearer to play with them by flipping the button to the plain gold or diamond side.
The button design is very simple but chic at the same time and able to convey many personal, sentimental meanings. I think it also has a cute, tender, aspect because when you happen to find a button, instinctively you keep it with you and save it because you think it might be useful…and Pomellato loves to translate gentle gestures into little precious masterpieces.

The “Nudo” Collection

If you had to pick only one piece from the whole Pomellato portfolio, which one would it be and why?

I would pick one piece from “Iconica”, the collection that marked my beginning as creative director, because I think it best witnesses our roots in the Milanese goldsmith tradition. And into that tradition, we have infused the volume, wearability and sensuality that Pomellato always pursue. “Iconica” fully represents Pomellato, with its sensual yet irregular gold chains and distinctive rings.  
Let’s say that “Iconica” is the expression of the powerful origins of the brand in a contemporary style.  Choosing just one piece, I would pick the “Iconica” bavarole because it takes our love of chains to the extreme in a very outstanding way, because it is a “transgenerational” creation, and because it expresses Pomellato’s exuberance and spirit with great force.

What is an advice you have for young jewelry designers?

My piece of advice would be: as in any profession, but for a jewelry designer in particular, it is important to understand the tradition, to learn the techniques, the processes, to know the types of embedding, the gems… jewelry has very precise rules for execution and knowing them is essential and the best starting point to be able to express one’s creativity.

Discover more about Pomellato, here