In their third season showing at Paris Haute Couture, AZZI & OSTA presented a collection that traverses between vintage allure and modern glamour, paying tribute to the golden age of couture of the 1950s.

The history of haute couture is intrinsically linked with the history of photography, and it is the work of Irving Penn that provided the inspiration for the AZZI & OSTA Autumn- Winter 2019 haute couture collection.

Renown for eternalizing his subjects, for captivating impactful images where the silhouette is captured as a form of art, Penn’s studio presented the backdrop for his creative mastery. It was the home of the artist’s true spirit and, it is this very dimension that inspired the creative directors to set the stage for Through the Lens. The photographer’s studio is where the storytelling began, with guests transported back in time for a moment, as observers of a 1950s photographers’ studio.

Far from a nostalgic look at the past, Through the Lens portrays a celebration of the future of couture, innovative in its creation, representing the blooming of a new era built upon the respect of the styles, principles and codes, which over the years, have shaped the history of fashion.

“We are honouring the golden age, where timeless silhouettes were invented and became forever engraved in history. Through the lens of Irving Penn, the very essence of couture as we perceive it, is omnipresent, highly orchestrated yet effortless. These are the aesthetics we value the most and always strive to reimagine.” – George Azzi & Assaad Osta- Creative Directors, of AZZI & OSTA.

AZZI & OSTA’s signature sculpted silhouettes feature concave waistlines elegantly manipulated in noble Silk Moiré and Double Satin Duchesse, reminiscent of the structured couture fabrics of the 50s juxtaposed with exquisite “point d’esprit”, tulle and lace craftsmanship that capture a lightness of motion.

“I always thought we were selling dreams, not clothes”-

Irving Penn.

Imitating the romanticism of Penn’s still life images, the palette for this collection is inspired by delicious floral notes; Rose pink, deep Orchid, crimson red, Gardenia, Pastel Lavender, grey Lilac and green Lily with the mesmerizing Tulip Sorbet featuring as the embroidery motif.

Feminine sculpted gowns, sweeping gowns of exaggerated proportions and intricate tulle embroidered vintage style jackets, contrast with a more masculine-coded silhouettes featuring contemporary tailored pant suits, a nod to Marlene Deitrich, in luminous bi-colored silks and lace with tuxedo detailing.

The 24-piece collection unveiled plenty of “stoppers” along the way. The Oyster- a breathtaking re-creation of Penn’s famous ” Aphrodisiacs” image ,crafted from exaggerated layers of tulle and Chantilly lace, adorned with hand-worked with silk Gazar, thread embroidery and dentelle de Lyon. The back of the dress features an intricately detailed faux bow-tie, in the form of the $100 note featured in the photograph. This one dress alone required a team of six expert embroiderers and four hundred hours of work to bring it to life.

Photography/Carl Halal