Prada Men Spring Summer 2024 elevates the codes of simplicity
| Prada Men Spring/Summer 2024 had a shirt as its starting point; the house that famously loves beautifully structured garments beyond measure, took that reference to attribute it to suits, raincoats, active sportswear or reporter jackets. Once again redefining traditional menswear norms, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons look at the clothes themselves but always with a vision of function and materiality.
Unshockingly, the collection started somewhat simply, the house being known for perfected simplicity, then expending to elaboration with unique textures and fabrics – we particularly loved the appliqué flowers that elevated the shirts, displaying a mix of innovation and sartorial efficiency. High waisted wide-leg shorts balance the shoulder breadth while the denim pieces are as desirable as ever, signing that the good’ole jean shirt is nowhere near the exit of stylish territories.
As observed the past season, shoulders are wide, shirts are tucked in, and pop colors details are warming up the line up; red patent leather shoes make an entrance, a pistacchio green coat attracts our eye and a deep green parka makes us wish for colder summer nights. As per the utilitarian pockets sitting on the outervests, they’ve been “alienated from their function.“
The show, titled “Fluid Form” came to life in the Deposito of the house’s Foundation, that saw slime descending from the ceilings as “Closer” from Nine Inch Nails played in the back. This collection questions the base of structure and masculinity, on which Simons expressed: “We began everything from the idea of shirting, its structure, its lightness. We were thinking a lot about the body — to give freedom to the body, even if our interest is to show references to archetypes and architecture in fashion, which is usually restrictive. So we applied the structure to a whole spectrum of masculine garments, giving them all lightness, an ease and comfort.”
As per Miuccia, who believes simplicity can sometimes be “too simple”, it’s also about a celebration of individuality, “the individuality of people, and therefore about an individuality of thinking.”
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