Though fashion month is nearly over, there is one show that JDEED cannot seem to get out of our heads: Diesel FW23 in Milan. Another daring and theatrical show by recently-minted Creative Director Glenn Martens, Diesel’s latest offering introduces new textures, styles, and playfulness that seek to expand his cemented new creative vision for the brand. From new ways of interpreting the iconic D logo to a striking duality between texture and elegance, read below for JDEED’s top picks from the show.

By Ethan Dinçer

Diesel x Durex

Addressing arguably the largest visual piece from the show – Diesel’s collaboration with Durex and the mound of 2 million condoms serving as the background to the catwalk. The partnership continues Diesel’s new brand identity that supports democracy, choice, and sex positivity as a human right.

We saw this last season with the giant inflatable statue, and this new partnership cements this identity. 300,000 Diesel x Durex condoms will be given away for free across the world, and an accompanying capsule collection will be available at the end of April.

200.000 condoms serve as a backdrop to the show. Victor Virgile/Getty Images

Mouths

Numerous pieces in the middle of the collection featured wide open smiles, teeth and all. Whether donning blue or red lipstick, each top, skirt, or jacket print featured perfectly pearly teeth and a nose where you wouldn’t expect: on the model’s shoulder, chest, or legs.

Jewelry

Jewelry hasn’t been the top of Diesel’s refresh until this season, with sweeping necklines giving room for stunning and daring neck pieces. From ‘Diesel’ spelled out in bold red letters on a choker, a bedazzled choker, or abstract white layered letters, Diesel’s new jewelry challenges the wearer to embrace the full Diesel lifestyle.

D-logo

Part of Glenn Martens’ visual refresh of the brand has been to renew and center the iconic D logo, anywhere from the viral D belt to the 1-DR ‘it’ bag of last year. This season, while still including the iconic belt and bag, the collection features the logo in more subtle places: making up part of a bag strap, holding together a top, or on sleeves.

Fans of the iconic logo should not worry, though: the collection still has plenty of reinterpreted ways of expressing that iconic logo.

Harsh meets soft

Glenn Martens, season after season, introduces more ripped garments that quite literally are falling off the body. However, this collection balances these rugged pieces with elegant silhouettes of miniskirts and flowy dresses that contrast rips to encapsulate the very essence of Diesel democracy.

The sweaters

Diesel takes texture to another level in their sweater selection in this collection. A brown/pink and olive/gray combination creates a visual contrast that emphasizes how tactile these pieces are, with their almost tufted quality.

Glorifying the body

Glenn Martens has always been interested in the body, particularly in his mesh pieces made for Y/Project. He brings a similar imagination to the runway this season, creating a new mesh skin of tattered denim. Quite literally creating a new body, these pieces, often head-to-toe, emphasize the body in its faded, muted, and tattered quality.

Wild outerwear

Last, but certainly not least, of JDEED’s top picks are wild outerwear Diesel brought to the runway. Large, colorful, and vibrant, these jackets bend the imagination of the viewer, not quite able to discern the exact makeup of the stripes, fur, and overall sheen. These pieces embody to the maximum the very four words Martens uses to describe.

Diesel: denim, utility, pop and artisanal, experimenting with each element within the outerwear silhouette.