Another season of London Fashion Week has come and gone, and the fashion world was treated to a wonderful array of emerging and established designers that showed daring new collections. From playful textures, structured tailoring, and bold designs, here are JDEED’s favorites from LFW’s AW23 season.  

By Ethan Dinçer

Burberry

Arguably the most anticipated of this season was the debut collection from Burberry under Daniel Lee. With Lee premiering new visual branding for the label a few weeks ago, the fashion world was anxiously waiting on the collection, shown Monday in London. Starting strong with bold purple and red hues, the collection featured numerous statement jackets in the brand’s iconic check pattern, supplemented with utilitarian pants and accessories that reflected a refined, almost industrial, feel.

Paolo Carzana

Newgen designer Paolo Carzana brought the voices of the lost queer generation out in his aptly titled show Queer Revolution. Neutral tones are punctuated by incredible textures that create a tactile experience for the viewer and the wearer. Pieces featuring angel wing-inspired attachments out of tulle and others with tight geometric patterns came together to show a visual cacophony that is as much queer as revolutionary.

Helen Anthony

Tailoring legend Helen Anthony presented an extensive FW collection of sharp blazers, sheer florals, and bright colors. The hybrid form between outerwear and eveningwear stole the show, with sheer tops, plunging necklines, and blazer jackets coming one after another in an almost repeating fashion. Checks, florals, and animal prints appeared when saturated pinks, blues, and yellows did not, a collection of contrasts that balanced out the intense tailored structure of each look.  

Mark Fast

Set in a brightly lit office-like space, Mark Fast’s latest collection was a unique mix of neons and shapes. His signature spider web knit, a motif present in his collections for years, once again came through in skirts and mini dresses. Androgynous silhouettes, crop tops, and layers invited the viewer to leave behind the formality of work and embrace the playful edge, pushing boundaries just far enough.  

KWK by Kay Kwok  

In contrast to Mark Fast, KWK by Kay Kwok’s AW23 show was set in the depths of a record studio, filled with smoke and an avant-garde electrified violin performance to set the stage for pulsating lights and edgy pieces. Embracing the future with open arms, the collection featured 3 dimensional armor-like metallic pieces that contrasted the otherwise muted color palette. Big shoulders and draped arms created a floating feel as the models walked down the runway, trailing oversized sleeves and belts in tow.