Fashion's Hidden Costs – A Look at Textile Waste in the Middle East
Netflix's latest documentary The Shopping Conspiracy, while it isn't one, truly resembles a horror movie. Except we are the main protagonists. The environmental footprint of the fashion industry today is far-reaching and deeply concerning.
Globally, the industry accounts for approximately 10% of carbon emissions, while only 12–15% of discarded clothing is recycled—the rest contributes to the staggering volumes of waste in landfills. In the Middle East, the challenges are no different, yet the region's unique blend of tradition and modernity offers both opportunities and hurdles in combating textile waste.
Fast Fashion Meets Fast Landfills
The rise of e-commerce platforms like Noon and Namshi has transformed fashion consumption in the Middle East, making trendy, affordable clothing accessible at the click of a button. However, this convenience has a cost. The UAE alone consumes about 500 million clothing items annually, discarding 210,000 tonnes each year, with up to 90% ending in landfills. As The Shopping Conspiracy illustrates, fast fashion encourages rapid consumption, driving an unsustainable cycle of buy, wear, and discard.
Platforms like Namshi, however, are taking steps toward sustainability. As the first Middle Eastern retailer to join the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Namshi incorporates recycled materials into its packaging and has introduced a curated selection of eco-conscious brands. Similarly, Noon’s acquisition of Namshi signals an opportunity to align its practices with sustainable goals, though its broader environmental strategy remains unclear.
ZOOMING IN
Saudi Arabia
Market Size and Consumption: In 2022, Saudi Arabia's fashion industry contributed approximately 1.4% to the nation's GDP, equating to around US$12.5 billion (SAR 46.9 billion), and employed about 230,000 individuals, representing 1.8% of the total workforce. Source: Ministry Of Fashion in Saudi
Textile Waste Generation: The country produces around 15 million tons of municipal solid waste annually, with textiles comprising approximately 2–6% of this total. Source: Ecomena
Per Capita Waste: The daily per capita waste generation in Saudi Arabia increased from 1.15 kg in 2010 to 1.72 kg in 2018, reflecting growing consumption patterns. Source: Saudi National Statistics
Initiatives Driving Change
Efforts to mitigate fashion waste in the Middle East have been gaining momentum:
Abu Dhabi's Tadweer Initiative: This Integrated Textile Circularity Initiative is a trailblazer in creating public-private partnerships to tackle textile waste at every level of the supply chain. By educating consumers and improving waste infrastructure, the UAE is positioning itself as a leader in sustainable fashion.
Recycling Plants and Fashion Weeks: Sharjah has established textile recycling plants that convert waste into reusable materials, while Dubai Sustainable Fashion Week shines a spotlight on innovative and eco-friendly design.
Regional Solutions to Modern Problems
Thankfully, the Middle East is stepping up its fight against fashion waste with innovative and impactful solutions led by a mix of brands and platforms dedicated to sustainability. From the UAE to Lebanon, these changemakers are redefining the region’s approach to fashion, proving that style and sustainability can coexist.
The Giving Movement and DGrade in the UAE are transforming waste into opportunity, using recycled materials to create eco-friendly clothing and fabrics, while Abadia in Saudi Arabia and Okhtein in Egypt champion ethical production and the preservation of cultural heritage.
Circular fashion is gaining traction with platforms like Bazaara, Siz.ae, and Reluxable, which promote resale, rental, and reuse, extending the life cycle of garments.
Designers like Roni Helou and Emergency Room Beirut are leading the way in zero-waste fashion, repurposing discarded fabrics into unique, sustainable designs.
Social initiatives like Thrift for Good in Dubai and The Middle East Fashion Council further amplify the movement by encouraging recycling, fostering collaboration, and funding charitable causes through second-hand sales.
Cultural practices also provide inspiration. Cairo's Zabbaleen community, featured in numerous environmental documentaries, has one of the world's most effective informal recycling systems, reusing up to 80% of the waste they collect. Their approach demonstrates how grassroots efforts can complement large-scale government and corporate initiatives.
With efforts like these, the region is not only addressing the urgent issue of textile waste but also setting a powerful example of how the fashion industry can evolve to meet the demands of a sustainable future.
A Balancing Act of Tradition and Modernity
The Middle East's fashion industry must navigate the delicate balance between its burgeoning consumer culture and the environmental imperative for change. While platforms like Noon and Namshi show promise, there is a pressing need for more aggressive, industry-wide efforts to address the crisis.
The Shopping Conspiracy reminds us that behind the allure of fashion lies a complex web of environmental challenges. In the Middle East, the solutions lie not just in addressing waste but in fostering a mindset shift—one where sustainability becomes as desirable as style itself. By investing in recycling infrastructure, promoting slow fashion, and educating consumers, the region has an opportunity to redefine what luxury truly means in the 21st century.
In a world increasingly driven by conscious consumption, can the Middle East become a beacon of sustainable fashion? Only time—and action—will tell.
